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Orders resume, eco-sustainability awarded

Encouraging signs from America and Northern Europe: the choice of green in yarns and machinery is increasingly decisive. In Val di Bisenzio a company invested in the middle of the pandemic and from March it suspended the layoffs for the 18 employees.

The carded spinning mills are starting to work again, orders are arriving and the hours of layoffs are starting to decrease; a small opening for a district that still does not see the end of the tunnel.

After the great haemorrhage that in 30 years, from 1985 to 2016, reduced spinning mills from 480 to 91 to reach the current 66, the recovery of the market, especially the American and northern European ones, is seen by entrepreneurs with relief also because the 40% of the spinning mills are at risk of extinction, of which 70% are subcontractors.

“A ring, that of the spinning mills – explains Gabriele Innocenti, owner of Omega Filati – which has always been weak, but today those who have invested in eco-sustainability are rewarded. Especially the luxury market requires this requirement more and more. Since March we have stopped making the layoffs which lasted for over 9 months in the year of Covid, we have lost 40% of turnover and now finally the inventories of the warehouse are decreasing “.

If it is difficult for carded spinning mills to talk about aggregation, it is however possible to create a virtuous system:

“Our company – continues Innocenti – since the 90s has become a manufacture that has always believed in eco-sustainability, the latest is the photovoltaic system that has made us independent from an energy point of view since April. In this process we have also involved the six plants that work for us. In some cases we have also helped entrepreneurs to invest even young ones, a rare commodity in this sector. In the same vein, we have tried to make all of our related industries work for almost the whole year, shifting to Omega with 3 out of 5 layoff days. Only if you work for most of the year can you survive “.

The other problem of spinning mills, in fact, is the lack of generational change:

“This is a work of sacrifice – explains the entrepreneur – but it can also give economic satisfaction. Once the place was handed down from father to son. Now it doesn’t happen anymore and the training process is long and often complicated: internships and apprenticeships are no longer adequate solutions, other methods are needed ”.

Approaches to the environment and production also change with a view to a green district as well.

“Our investments for the most part concern sustainability: recycling wool involves a tenfold decrease in carbon dioxide emissions compared to the use of virgin wool, practically 0.9 per kg against 9.6 per kg for virgin. In addition, all our industries are within a radius of 15Km. Now we are replacing the vehicles with electric ones, moreover in June we will replace part of the machinery with those of generation 4.0 “.

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